How to Install Floating Vinyl Plank Flooring

LVP is the easiest 'real' flooring to install yourself. Subfloor prep determines whether it looks like a pro job or a DIY job.

Acclimate the planks in the room for 48 hours before installing. Vinyl expands and contracts with temperature, and skipping this step is the #1 cause of buckled LVP six months later.

Subfloor must be flat within 3/16" over 10 ft. Run a long level across the floor and shim hollows with floor leveler or sand high spots. Vacuum thoroughly. If your subfloor is uneven, the planks will telegraph every dip — and clicking joints will fail along high spots.

Start along the longest straight wall. Leave a 1/4" expansion gap at every wall, every cabinet, every transition — spacers in the box make this easy. Lay the first row with the tongue facing the wall. Click each subsequent plank at an angle into the previous row, then drop it flat. Stagger end joints at least 8" between rows for strength and appearance.

End cuts can be made with a sharp utility knife — score deep, snap, done. No saw needed for straight cuts. For door jambs, undercut the jamb with a multi-tool so the planks slide underneath rather than cutting an awkward notch. Finish with quarter-round or shoe molding to cover the expansion gap.